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Window Tinting

27K views 45 replies 19 participants last post by  FattiesGoneWild  
#1 ·
I was thinking about tinting my windows, but I have taken a pause. I found out about the UVU and UVS windows on the Crown.

I guess Toyota is installing both an inside and outside coating on the windows on the Crown. The inside coating reduces UV/Heat from coming into the car, and the outside coating make water run off.

My understanding is tint can be installed but the trouble is removal if you develop installation problems The tinting adhesives will remove the inside coating in patches and not as a whole piece, requiring a dealer to replace the window.

Has anyone else heard of this?
 
#3 ·
That does seem to be something to consider if a car has VU/IR coating.

It seems like it'd be best to speak to a shop and get their thoughts before doing it.


TOYOTA Document Describing UVU coating

Tip 1: Check for Stamping indicators before starting work on the windows, take a moment to look at the glass for any stampings or indicators that say UVU/IR coating. These stamps are usually provided by the manufacturer and assist as indicators that the glass has the UVU/IR coating.

Tip 2: Proper Window Cleaning When preparing the windows for tinting, it is crucial to use a new, soft microfiber towel. Avoid using the abrasive side of the microfiber towel, or any tools like razor blades, steel wool, or abrasive scrub pads. These will damage the UVU/IR coating, resulting in buying the customer new glass!

Tip 3: Clear Disclosure and Documentation Installers should provide customers with a clear disclosure before tinting the windows. This disclosure should explain that once the windows are tinted, the process is permanent. It's important to tell the customer that any imperfections in the glass or debris in the window tint will also be permanent. To ensure transparency, installers should use CRM tools like Tint Wiz to save signed documents in the customer's profile.

Tip 4: Removal Considerations In the event that the tint needs to be removed, it is likely that the UVU/IR coating will also be removed. As a result, the customer may need to purchase a new window. It's crucial to inform customers about this potential risk before tinting their windows, letting them to make an informed decision.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Wifey has it at work but will take some pictures of it tonight. Sure looks 100% better, and much cooler inside now.
I asked about the coating from factory and I am unclear a bit, but if states it has water proof coating on the glass I would assume it's on the outside of the glass where concern is from scratching, why would you need/ want it on the inside is beyond me, as this is where the tinting is applied, but see that it may come off leaving patches of UV material if the tinting needed removal.
I have had this installer put tinting, on various vehicles over 25 years and never needed to remove any of his tint.
After reading the facts about this interior UV coating, I will inquire with him on removal damages to the window- just what a guy would not like is patches that look like bubbles if you had it re-tinted.... But with the looks of the car now, I would do it again.
 
#7 ·
Wifey has it at work but will take some pictures of it tonight. Sure looks 100% better, and much cooler inside now.
I asked about the coating from factory and I am unclear a bit, but if states it has water proof coating on the glass I would assume it's on the outside of the glass where concern is from scratching, why would you need/ want it on the inside is beyond me, as this is where the tinting is applied, but see that it may come off leaving patches of UV material if the tinting needed removal.
I have had this installer put tinting, on various vehicles over 25 years and never needed to remove any of his tint.
After reading the facts about this interior UV coating, I will inquire with him on removal damages to the window- just what a guy would not like is patches that look like bubbles if you had it re-tinted.... But with the looks of the car now, I would do it again.
How long has your tint been installed for?
Curious because I know sometimes it needs time to fully set in after install.
 
#24 ·
I was thinking about tinting my windows, but I have taken a pause. I found out about the UVU and UVS windows on the Crown. I guess Toyota is installing both an inside and outside coating on the windows on the Crown. The inside coating reduces UV/Heat from coming into the car, and the outside coating make water run off. My understanding is tint can be installed but the trouble is removal if you develop installation problems The tinting adhesives will remove the inside coating in patches and not as a whole piece, requiring a dealer to replace the window. Has anyone else heard of this?
I had my windows tinted on my Crown recently and the guy did a terrible job. It bubbled up really bad. He took the tint off the front two windows and put new on not knowing it had the uv protection on it so when he put the new on it looked like a wild cat was trying to get out of my car. The glass itself was scratched all up and he had to replace my widows. After replacing the windows he still can’t get the tint done properly
 
#28 · (Edited)
Its the UVU on the two front windows that can be an issue. It can be tinted over, but any future removal may be an issue. A quality tint originally, heat gun or steam and slow removal may be able to pull the tint off at a later date. The other windows do not have the UVU coating so they should not be an issue down the road.

A tint installer typically will razor clean the inside of the windows to remove any bumpy stuck on debris - It's amazing what junk is stuck to the windows that can't be seen until tint is applied and highlights it. This must be done with a new razor but SHOULD NOT be done on the UVU coating. The chance is too high it will scratch the coating.

If removal was necessary, and the coating pulled off, there is the option of removing the coating entirely. Used to be a tint installer long ago, and I have never removed the coating personally, but others have. Takes a dry scraper and patience. It scrapes off to a fine powder. It's a worst case scenario I would certainly try on my personal vehicle before buying new windows. Its just an extra clear UV coating on the surface of the glass. And if tint was being reapplied you wold be adding the UV protection back in anyway.
 
#30 · (Edited)
For those that may be interested.

The Crown factory pigment tests out to 80% on the front side windows and 79% on the back sides. Those numbers along with manufacturer's tint film spec numbers and the formula below, should help get you close to choosing a tint that gets as dark as possible and still falls within your State's limits (if you care).

Many states have a maximum darkness that windows can be. It may be the same front and back or different. Both states and tint manufacturers use the darkness rating given in VLT (Visible Light Transmission). It's how much light from the outside is let in. A 90% tint is not dark, it's opposite normal thought. A tint with a VLT of 90% is very light because it allows 90% of the outside light through the window. A tint with a VLT of 5% is dark because it only allows 5% of the light into the car.

If tinting and attempting to stay within a State's laws, two tints must be factored. The darkness of the tint film to be applied AND the tint pigment already in the car glass from factory. For example, if a State's law says 35% is the maximum, a 35% tint film applied will not be legal (if you care) because combined with the tint pigment already in the window it will result in a final tint darker than 35%. Most sedans have a factory pigment tint of between 70% and 80% to abide by Federal Highway Standards. A 35% film applied to a car with 80% pigment will result in a final 28% VLT (Percentage math formula .35x.80x100=28 ). To meet a State's 35% max, for example, a tint with a 44% VLT would need to be applied to a car with 80% pigment (.44x.80x100=35). A little leeway is given in the popular tint tester most inspection stations and law enforcement use. It has a 2% +/-. So a tested window with a final 33% tint falls within the +/-2% of 35% if that's your State's limit.

Most quality tint manufacturers make tint in 5%, 20%, 35%, 50%. Some make 40% as well. However, these are standard ratings and may not be the actual value. Quality manufacturers will test their tint and have spec sheets of their actual ratings. For example, a tint manufacturer may market a tint as 40% but it really tests out to 43%. Or they may market a 35% but it really tests out to a 33%. These small amounts can make a difference if you are trying to get as dark as possible and stay within the law of your state and not fail annual inspections or get pulled over (again if you care).

A good tint shop should work all this out for you as well. But many shops are loyal to and only carry one particular tint brand, and it's possible their particular brand may not give you the exact percentages you are looking for.

Just info for those that like info.
 
#31 ·
I am searching this thread for obvious reasons. My last car had claimed 95% UV protection with my ceramic tint. The tint was legal in amount of tint and even had it on the windshield. I just got my Crown 3 weeks ago and can tell you, before spring is even well established, that the Toyota UV protection is nowhere as effective as my ceramic tint was. So, yes, I am looking for options.
 
#32 ·
Yea, the ceramic tints are good a UV blocking. The extra UV blocking coating (known as UVU) Toyota applies is only to the front driver and passenger windows and I don't care for it. Creates serious maintenance problems with scratching so easy, takes more caution when tinting, and has a permanent fog/haze to it when the sun shines through at any type of angle. Makes it look like the window has never been cleaned. Wish Toyota would stop using it.
 
#34 ·
I was thinking about tinting my windows, but I have taken a pause. I found out about the UVU and UVS windows on the Crown.

I guess Toyota is installing both an inside and outside coating on the windows on the Crown. The inside coating reduces UV/Heat from coming into the car, and the outside coating make water run off.

My understanding is tint can be installed but the trouble is removal if you develop installation problems The tinting adhesives will remove the inside coating in patches and not as a whole piece, requiring a dealer to replace the window.

Has anyone else heard of these Tint Laws?
I have a 08 SE and the window tint on the hatch is starting to bubble up. This is the tint that came with the car, I presume from the factory. I have only 15k miles on it. Is this something that would be covered under the warranty?
 
#36 · (Edited)
You are in another country but, manufacturer's that ship cars to the US do not apply film as a factory tint. It is pigmented right into the glass. So if yours is pealing, and it's like here in the States, it was done after factory. If the car was purchased brand new with the tint, it could be a dealer applied product. Dealers can do add on's or customs themselves.

If your tint is really over 15years old and is starting to lift that's not really abnormal. A quality tint could outlast the car, but 15 years isn't bad especially if in a lot of heat and sun.

If your manufacturer warranty is like those in the US, they expire in three years so you are long past that.
 
#41 · (Edited)
A few threads back may be of interest to you https://www.crownforums.com/posts/1590/

The front driver's and passenger's windows must have a VLT no less than 70% to meet Federal Highway Safety Standards. Manufacturers must hold to this maximum darkness and go no darker to sell SUV's in the states. As noted in the post above, 70% is not dark. If the Signia uses the same glass as the Crown, the front windows are 80% from Toyota factory. The windows behind the driver and passenger on a SUV can be almost anything the manufacturer desires as long as they meet Federal Standards - such as two side view mirrors, backup cameras and a few other things. Most typically come from factory in the 15% to 20% VLT.

A sedan is bound by the laws for a sedan (Crown) which federal and most states give a limit for any and all windows. SUV's (Signia) on the other hand are classified different. The windows behind the driver and passenger can be darker and even blocked if they meet the Federal Highway Safety Standards and depending on the state. That's why SUV's and Mini Vans have dark windows behind the passenger and driver.
 
#43 ·
The discrepancies are because of the liability a shop is willing to accept by tinting Toyota windows with UVU coating. It scratches very easily. A tint installer has to clean the windows very well before applying the tint. The UVU coating can be scratched during this cleaning process. Once scratched, the tint shop owes the customer a new window. Tinting is also not a once and done installation. Sometimes the tint while being applied creases, or rips, or gets a too much debris behind it that shows spots and the piece of tint needs to be removed and reapplied during the installation. This is not uncommon and is part of the installtion process. If the tint starts to dry and adhere, but needs to be pulled off, the adhesive can pull off a section of UVU coating. The tint shop now owes the customer a new window. If the shop offers a warrenty and somehting goes wrong with the tint a few months down the road (could be a bad batch from manufacturer and color goes or adhesive fails, happens) they can now not pull off the tint and re-apply. It will pull the UVU coating off and the shop again owes the customer a new window.

As you can see some shops will do it, and others don't want the risk. I wouldn't call it a discrepency, more of how much risk and laibility a shop wants to assume. Some will do it some will not, some will do it with no warrenty.

As I mentioned in a previous post, this only applies to the front diver and passanger side windows. The rear does not have the UVU coating on the Crowns.